Home Destinations Cacti, Crystals and Canyons: Perfect 5-day road trip in Arizona

Cacti, Crystals and Canyons: Perfect 5-day road trip in Arizona

by Jan Schroder
grand canyon

When I was 12 I saw the Grand Canyon for about 2 minutes, Chevy Chase “Vacation”-style. It was time for a return visit, so why not make it a road trip through our 48th state to catch other attractions? We drove from the height of Mount Lemmon outside of Tucson to the verdant Oak Creek Valley near Sedona on our way to our final stop, the Grand Canyon.

Along the way I discovered a new favorite town with excellent wines and romantic boutique hotel and ate my weight in Mexican dishes. Here are highlights of a five-day trip in Arizona.

A few fun facts about Arizona: It became our 48th state in 1912, it’s our sixth largest state, one-fourth of the state is reservation land, it has about 300 days with sunshine and low humidity. That means the most fun fact of all for me – my hair looks great in Arizona.

Here’s the agenda my husband, Chris, and I followed for a perfect 5 days in Arizona. (We were there for six days but the last day was just driving to the airport, so I’m not counting that.)

Days 1: Tucson

Stop 1: 5 Points Market and Restaurant

huevos rancheros at 5 Points Market in Tucson
What better way to start off a road trip in Arizona than with a heaping plate of huevos rancheros? (All photos by Jan Schroder unless otherwise noted)

Although our entry into Tucson was marked by gray skies, we were cheered immensely with lunch at 5 Points Market and Restaurant where I dug into a heaping plate of huevos rancheros, the first of many Mexican dishes I’d savor during our six days in Arizona. Being a lover of all things beet, Chris’s face lit up when he saw smoked beet salad on the menu.

Carly Quinn Designs in Tucson
Carly Quinn Designs has gorgeous tiles.

After lunch we wandered a bit in the Five Points neighborhood which has been inhabited by Chinese, Mexican, Indigenous and European residents since the 1800s. Attracted by the brightly colored tile on the exterior of the building, we had to check out Carly Quinn Designs, filled with beautifully colored hand-glazed tiles of all sizes.

Stop 2: Mount Lemmon

rock formations outside Tucson
Some of the rock formations on the drive to Mount Lemmon before the snow came.

The highest point in the Santa Catalina Mountains, Mount Lemmon is at 9,159 elevation and the home to Mount Lemmon Ski Valley, the southernmost place to ski in the U.S. The scenery on the drive was stunning and I especially loved seeing the giant rock formations.

We quickly left the mild temperatures in the 70s and I was surprised when the gentle rain on our windshield turned to snow. I had been warned about the temperature change so had prepared with coat, hat and gloves so was delighted by the snow.

Jan Schroder at Mount Lemmon Ski Valley
I couldn’t ride the SkyRide but I could make snowballs. (Photo by Chris Schroder)

Sadly, we were disappointed that we weren’t able to ride the SkyRide that would have taken us to the top of the slopes at Ski Valley as they closed early that day. Yes, I see the irony of a ski resort closing because of snow. I consoled myself by making some snowballs and tossing them in the parking lot.

Popular in the winter months for skiing, snowboarding and sledding, Mount Lemmon is also popular year-round for hiking, camping and fishing, particularly in the summer months when the temperatures can soar in Tucson.

Stop 3: Loews Ventana Canyon Resort

lobby of Loews Ventana Canyon Hotel
The lobby of Loews Ventana Canyon Resort. (Photo courtesy of Loews)

If I could create a dream resort in a desert, Loews Ventana Canyon Resort would be it. Our large room at this gorgeous luxury resort had a balcony with a view of the Sonoran Desert, Catalina Mountains, the pool and a small waterfall that we could hear if we left our balcony door open. We wandered down the Window Walk nature trail around the property that took us to an 80-foot waterfall.

room at Loews Ventana Canyon Resort
Our room at Loews Ventana Canyon Resort.

The landscaping is gorgeous and not a single cacti was harmed during its construction. Architectural Digest named it “The First Environmentally Conceived Resort in North America.”

The resort has three restaurants, golf course, tennis courts, pickleball courts, large fitness room and Lakeside Spa. To really enjoy those wide-open Arizona skies, go to the stargazing sessions held every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday with the guidance of a University of Arizona educator.

Stop 4: Dinner at Zio Peppe

Bread &  Spread zio peppe
The amazing Bread & Spread at Zio Peppe.

Dinner that night was Italian-American cuisine at Zio Peppe. We tried two types of pasta: rotini alla tequila, which featured the iconic Mexican spirit rather than vodka in the sauce, and green chili garganelli Bolognese made with the New Mexican green chili.

Growing up with free bread service, I’m not a big fan of the recent development of charging for bread, which makes me feel more guilty for eating it than if it just showed up at my table. But the Bread & Spread here was a highlight of our meal. I’ve eaten a lot of bread, A LOT, but this was truly amazing.

limoncello and taconnoli at zio peppe
We ended our meal at Zio Peppe with taconnoli and limoncello.

The owner, Mat Cable, stopped by our table and told us they spent a month perfecting the bread, which has mesquite flour in it and is also used in the pizza.

And who could resist taconnoli, which are like cannoli, but served in sweet pastry taco rolls. So delicious with a shot of limoncello.

Day 2: Tucson

Stop 1: Seis Kitchen

breakfast at Seis Kitchen in Tucson
Another giant plate of Mexican food for breakfast at Seis Kitchen. You can see why we skipped lunch that day.

It was back to Mexican cuisine with a stunningly large breakfast burrito at Seis Kitchen before setting out for a day exploring the desert and downtown Tucson.

Stop 2: Saguaro National Park

Chris Schroder hiking in Saguaro National Park.
Check out how tall that saguaro cactus is. They can live from 150 to 200 years.

Our first stop was Saguaro National Pak, named after the giant cactus that is the symbol of the American West. Tucson is home to the largest cacti in the country, with the saguaro sometimes growing to 50 feet tall.

We saw plenty of these statuesque cacti as we hiked the King Canyon Trail, toting plenty of water and wearing hats to deal with the spring temperatures that rose as the morning waned. Our hike was slowed by me stopping frequently to take photos of so many cacti, which seemed like snowflakes in that no two were alike.

Red Hills visitor center
The Red Hills Visitor Center was packed on a gorgeous Saturday afternoon.

A brief stop in the Red Hills Visitor Center was proof that the National Parks are wildly popular as it was packed on this gorgeous Saturday afternoon.

Stop 3: Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum

landscape at arizona sonora museum
More cacti at the Arizona-Sonora Museum.

I was delighted to observe so many dinosaurs in their native habitat at this museum, fighting, protecting babies, just hanging out. Okay, so maybe they weren’t real dinosaurs, but rather part of a temporary exhibit, but they were charming all the same.

But even after the dinosaurs have moved on, there’s plenty to see here. The 98-acre museum includes an aquarium, botanical garden and art gallery along with its 1200 types of plants and 230 animal species.

Stop 4: Downtown Tucson

“The Embrace,” is a memorial to victims of the shooting in 2011 located outside the Pima County Courthouse.

Our big challenge heading into downtown Tucson was finding our way to a parking lot, encountering closed roads as it was the weekend of the 40th annual Tucson Folk Festival, which included a marketplace, live music, beer garden and young artist showcase. Bonus!

I strolled through the University of Arizona Alfie Norville Gem and Mineral Museum in awe of the variety and colors of the hundreds of gems, crystals and minerals on display. It’s located in the Pima County Courthouse, which has a memorial at the entrance on the west side. “The Embrace” is dedicated to the victims of the mass shooting in Tucson on January 8, 2011 when U.S. Representative Gabby Giffords and 18 others were shot.

cactus mural in downtown Tucson
I had sworn off taking photos of cacti, but how could I resist capturing this giant cactus mural in downtown Tucson?

You can learn more about that day, including an interview with one of the survivors in a movie at the Southern Arizona Heritage & Visitor Center, also located in the Pima County Courthouse.

Our next stop was the Presidio District where Tucson was established in 1775 as a Spanish military fort. The 250-year-old row house at the Presidio San Agustin de Tucson Museum, was closed for the Folk Festival but the grounds of the reproduction of the original presidio were open, a perfect place to grab a beer and a spot in the shade to listen to live music.

El Tiradito Wishing Shrine, in Tucson
The El Tiradito Wishing Shrine dedicated to a guy who slept with his mother-in-law and was hacked to death by his father-in-law.

After hearing the story of the El Tiradito Wishing Shrine, we had to stop to see it. Want to hear the scandalous story? Of course you do! In the 1870s, Juan Oliveras, a young newlywed, was having an affair with his married mother-in-law, the wife of a wealthy sheep rancher. The rancher found them in bed together and hacked up Juan with an ax. It isn’t clear to me how this led to him having a popular shrine more than 150 years later.

Stop 5: Tito & Pep

buttermilk panna cotta at tito and pep
The buttermilk panna cotta at Tito & Pep. We aren’t usually big dessert eaters but we made exceptions for the creative dishes in Arizona, hoping all that wandering around looking at cactic would burn off the extra calories.

Dinner here was a delight as we feasted on grilled octopus, Baha striped bass and mesquite-grilled pork chop amid the orange and turquoise interior.

Day 3: Tucson, Cottonwood

Stop 1: Tohono Chul

Dos Rancheros with red chile chicken on top at Tohono Chul Garden Bistro
We could have fed a family with the dos rancheros with red chicken chile on top. It was one of the best dishes we had in Arizona. Once again we skipped lunch.

I can think of no more delightful way to spend a Sunday morning than dining at Tohono Chul Garden Bistro where I ate a giant breakfast for the second day in a row. At our server Robert’s suggestion, we got the Chul omelet and dos rancheros with red chile chicken on top – fabulous!

children's garden tohono chul
The entrance to the Children’s Garden at Tohono Chul.

After breakfast we strolled around the nature trails of Tohono Chul gardens, enjoying the themed gardens that included a Hummingbird Garden, Streamside Garden and Children’s Garden. And yes, there were thousands more cacti but I tried to curtail taking photos of every species.

Stop 2: DeGrazia Gallery in the Sun

painting by ted de grazia
Ted DeGrazia had several styles of painting, but this style was my favorite. Painted in 1944, it’s called “Third Class Blue.”

Confession: I knew nothing about the acclaimed artist Ettore “Ted” DeGrazia, but after touring his museum, gardens and grounds, I knew about his mission, legacy and why he is so beloved.

The museum is located on the property in the Santa Catalina Mountains where the artist first began building in the 1950s. The property includes his original home, small gallery and chapel. We wandered through the sunlit rooms of the mission, viewing some of the thousands of pieces of his art on display, which included watercolors, sketches, sculptures, ceramics and jewelry.

Mission in the Sun at DeGrazia Gallery
The Mission in the Sun, a small chapel Ted DeGrazia built on his property.

I loved the Mission in the Sun, a small building with remnants of his hand-painted frescoes that remain after a fire in 2017.

It was time to head to our next destination, Cottonwood, which was about 3.25 hours away.

Day 4: Cottonwood

Old Town Cottonwood Arizona
Old Town Cottonwood is lined with restaurants, galleries, retail and wine tasting rooms.

I arrived in Cottonwood knowing very little about this small city named after a stand of trees where travelers would gather before heading up the mountains. I left just one day later, completely charmed by its Old Town, our hotel, the local wines and the most entertaining Wild West show I’d ever seen.

Stop 1: Arizona Stronghold

Jan Schroder and Chris Schroder at Arizona Stronghold.
Sitting on a patio with a flight of wine in front of me is one of my happy places.

A stroll down N. Main Street in Old Town was enough to let me know that wine is big here as we passed several wine tasting venues. If you have the time, check out several of them on the Verde Valley Wine Trail.

As our time was limited, we took a seat in the garden patio of Arizona Stronghold and settled in for a relaxing time of enjoying a wine flight.

Stop 2: The Tavern Hotel

Tavern Hotel in Cottonwood Arizona
I loved The Tavern Hotel, a charming boutique hotel in Cottonwood.

Opened in 2011 in a former grocery store built in 1925, The Tavern Hotel has been voted one of the Most Romantic in the U.S. I loved the décor with hardwood floors and inviting chaise lounge.

Guests receive a coupon for a complimentary drink at The Tavern Grille next door, and not being ones to turn down a free drink, we saddled up to the bar that afternoon and were shocked by the large crowds at the restaurant.

room at Tavern Hotel in Cottonwood Arizona
I wish I’d had more time to just lounge in that comfortable lounge chair in our room at The Tavern Hotel.

Breakfast is included at Crema Craft Kitchen & Bar across the street, where we started the day with a Monte Cristo sandwich and a salad. Chris is a huge salad eater and has expanded his daily intake to include breakfast salads in addition to lunch and dinner.

Stop 3: Blazin’ M Ranch

Our most entertaining evening of our visit to Arizona, this frontier town, dinner and show was a blast. Ryan Glass, co-owner with his wife Leila, showed us around prior to the show where activities include ax throwing, mini golf, escape room, saloon and even a store to get a custom-made hat.

They purchased the property in 2021 to realize their goal of creating a family entertainment center. Future plans include the addition of glamping and a wedding venue, taking advantage of the beautiful location on the Verde River.

“Do you perform in the show,” I asked. “Yeah, I do a bit,” he said.

Ryan Glass as Elvis at Blazin M Ranch.
Ryan Glass performing as Elvis. His wife, Leila, is to the left.

Turns out, he is the main star of the show, which includes live music, dancing and impersonations of several famous singers like Patsy Cline, Reba McEntyre and Willie Nelson. And yes, Elvis was in the house.

Dinner is served buffet style with tables taking turns loading up trays with chicken and barbecue – both super tender after being cooked low and slow. Other dishes include mashed potatoes, mac and cheese and peach cobbler. We ended the evening with a rousing rendition of “God Bless America.”

Day 4: Sedona, Grand Canyon

I was sad to put Cottonwood in the rear-view mirror, but we had a national park to visit with plenty of stunning scenery along the way.

Stop 1. Sedona

The Chapel of the Holy Cross.
The Chapel of the Holy Cross is a stunning feat of architecture, rising out of the red rocks.

Shortly after we left Cottonwood, the towering red rocks of Sedona came into view and we headed to our first stop, the Chapel of the Holy Cross. We weren’t the only ones with this idea – the parking lot was packed but we finally found a spot and walked up the long ramp to enter the Chapel, commissioned by local rancher Marguerite Brunswig Staude and completed in 1956.

It is a stunning work of architecture and definitely worth a visit.

Stop 2: Hiking at Airport Mesa

chris schroder hiking at airport Mesa in Sedona
Chris hiking at the Airport Mesa in Sedona.

I had read about the vortexes in Sedona, centers of energy that are thought to promote healing and self-exploration, leading to the city being the home to many spiritual practices and wellness venues.

One of these vortexes, the Airport Mesa, promised gorgeous views and hiking trails. While I didn’t notice any particular change in energy, the views were fabulous. We hiked to the summit then headed to another hiking trail. After walking about a mile, I realized we had made two classic hiking mistakes. 1. We hadn’t taken water with us. 2. We didn’t know how long this hiking trail loop was. We turned back.

Stop 3: Exploring Tlaquepaque Village

Tlaquepaque Village in sedona
Tlaquepaque Village is a lovely place to wander, check out art galleries or head to the brewery for a beverage.

Even if you aren’t into shopping, it’s worth strolling through this maze of a village, conceived of as an artist community, and now home to galleries, restaurants and gift shops. Given its intimate spaces and lovely sycamore trees, it’s no surprise it’s a popular place for weddings.

Stop 4: Oak Creek Vista

The vendors at Oak Creek Vista. (Photo for USDA Media by Lance Cheung)

Shortly after leaving Sedona, we entered Coconino National Forest as we headed our way north on 89a, which covers some of the most beautiful terrain in the state, including the creeks and waterfalls of Oak Creek.

To take a break from the twisty road and view magnificent mountain vistas, we stopped at Oak Creek Vista. Booths of Native Americans selling goods drew my attention and always happy to support artisans, I bought a small pair of turquoise earrings. Plus, turquoise is the state gem of Arizona.

Stop 5: Red Feather Lodge

red feather lodge
Red Feather Lodge is a convenient place to stay for visiting the Grand Canyon. (Photo courtesy of Red Feather Lodge)

Our accommodations for two nights were in this family-owned, affordable hotel in Tusayan. It was a perfect location for visiting Grand Canyon National Park as it’s just one mile south of the south rim entrance.

During the summer you can purchase a National Park Entrance Pass at the front desk and there’s a shuttle that will take you inside the park.

We could walk to Foodie Club for a casual dinner our first night.

Day 5: Grand Canyon

Buck Wild Grand Canyon Hummer
Our vehicle for our Buck Wild Hummer Tour of the Grand Canyon.

Even though it was a weekday in April, we had read about lines of cars waiting to get into the Grand Canyon’s South Rim entrance. Being on East Coast time anyway, we opted to grab a cup of coffee and head to enter the park.

With no line, we sailed in and killed a bit of time at the Visitor Center before meeting up with our tour with Buck Wild Hummer Tours

It was a blast riding around in the modified Hummer while our tour guide regaled us with stories of the Grand Canyon in between stopping at three vistas. She also gave us a great trip on a hiking trail to do on our own.

We walked out on Shoshone Point for an amazing view of the Grand Canyon.

The Shoshone Point Trail has a small parking lot and starts with a hike on an old dirt road through the forest. After about a mile we came to picnic tables, bathrooms and magnificent views of the Grand Canyon and Shoshone Point.

We ended our Grand Canyon experience with a late showing of the Grand Canyon: Rivers of Time IMAX movie that depicted several scenes we didn’t see: eagles swooping into the canyon and rafters braving the white waters of the Colorado River.

Our last meal was a delicious fajita dinner and margaritas at Plaza Bonita next door to our hotel.

For more on Arizona, go to Visit Arizona.

– Jan Schroder, Editor-in-chief

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