Yes, it’s sad to bid adieu to Paris, but the cure for that is a stay at a gorgeous chateau-like property in Brittany. We left Paris to stay in Domaine de la Bretesche, a Relais and Chateau property that sits on close to 500 acres.
Our stay in Paris at Hotel de Sers felt like we had our own elegant apartment, while Domaine de la Bretesche was our luxury country retreat. We biked the large tree-filled grounds, enjoyed cocktails in the clubby atmosphere of the former stables and dined in cozy settings. Our view of a 14th century castle was a highlight.
Although I’d been practicing my French with Duolingo, I am far from fluent, but we had no language barrier as they either understood my very basic French or could speak English enough so we could communicate. The clientele is primarily French with some guests from Belgium and Switzerland and very few Americans.
Castle views, forest murals: Accommodations at Domaine De La Bretesche
The first thing I do when I get to a hotel room is look at the view. The second thing I did in our room was to take a photo of the magnificent castle and the scenic lake to send to my princess-obsessed 4-year-old granddaughter.
Forget Disney – this was the real thing. Built in the 15th century, the castle of Bretesche was home to the barons of La Roche-Bernard who lived in the castle until it became a fortress. It has undergone a few renovations in the intervening centuries and was once more dressed in scaffolding. While the castle is not open to the public, it was a lovely backdrop to our visit.
The hotel building once housed the stables, carriage house and service quarters of a chateau. Every room is different, all with gorgeous views. Our room on the second floor had a king-sized bed, two chairs by window and a desk, and was flooded with natural light.
My favorite feature was the loveseat with a mural of trees in muted shades of gray behind it. Our bathroom, decorated in shades of white, grey and brown, had two sinks and a towel warmer.
Other accommodations at Domaine de la Bretesche include nine villas by the golf pro shop that have one and two bedrooms.
Bountiful buffet, fine dining and brasserie classics: Dining at Domaine de la Bretesche
One of my favorite things in life is waking up in a lovely hotel room and knowing that a delicious breakfast awaits me. One that I don’t have to cook or clean up. Breakfast at Domaine de la Bretesche was a delight, a full buffet with a huge selection of pastries, breads, hot dishes and cheeses. In addition to the buffet, we could also order pancakes, omelets, eggs benedict and French toast.
The meal is served in the elegantly appointed dining room of Le Montaigu, the fine dining restaurant housed in the former carriage house. Our favorite table was right by the window where we could enjoy a view of the lake, the castle and some Alpen rose in bloom.
Unfortunately, because we were there during the week in the low season, Le Montaigu was not open for dinner. It serves a prix fixe dinner under the leadership of Chef Filipe Silvestre.
Instead we enjoyed lunch and dinner at the cozy Le Club Brasserie with a menu that included a pasta of the day, charcuterie tray, omelets, tuna, duck breast, salads, burgers and steak.
The former stables were turned into the Bar des Écuries where we enjoyed wine and whisky in a private alcove that was once a horse stall. In addition to the full bar, teas, coffees, hot chocolate and soft drinks were available.
Biking, tennis, golf: Activities at Domaine De La Bretesche
Golfers will enjoy Golf de la Bretesche, a 18-hole, par-72 course that winds between the ancient forest with views of the chateau.
There are two pools, a heated outdoor pool available from May to September, and an indoor pool. We were there in October so missed the outdoor pool, but the indoor pool was warm and inviting and had lounge chairs for relaxing. Tennis and horseback riding are also available.
One day I enjoyed a relaxing massage in the Cour Carrée spa where a variety of treatments were available.
Bicycles are available for guest use, so one day we took off the explore the bike paths and to circle the trail around the lake on a sunny October day. When she saw the lake in the photo, my granddaughter had said, “Don’t fall in the lake, Mia.” I thought of that as we passed one part of the lake trail that was inches from the lake so I heeded her warning.
I had put our large room key securely in my bike basket. Or so I thought. We got back to the hotel and to my horror I discovered the key was missing. This was no plastic, easy-to-replace hotel key. Oh no, it was a large metal key about the size of a soda can. How could it have jumped out of my basket?
The staff at the front desk kindly offered us their spare and Chris volunteered to go ride around the lake again to see if he could find it on the leaf-covered path. No luck. With little hope, I set out on a bike the next day and voila, found it nestled in the leaves on the path around the lake. Dieu merci!
Day trips from Domaine de la Bretesche
We had rented a car for our second week in France, so had the luxury of exploring nearby towns. On the advice of the general manager, Alain Blondeau, we headed to the medieval city of Vannes one day, about 40 minutes away. We lucked into a parking spot in the busy 2,000-year-old city and set out to explore with no agenda.
It was drizzling but undeterred, we wandered along cobblestoned streets lined with 15th-century timbered houses. We passed by the Hotel de Ville, completed in 1886, the lovely Jardin des Remparts and admired the early 17th-century Porte Saint-Vincent, a giant gate leading to the old town.
On our return, we navigated the narrow cobblestoned streets in the small medieval village of La Roche-Bernard and strolled by the Vilaine River, watching the fisherman and viewing the yachts in the harbor.
A bit of backstory on Domaine de la Bretesche
Alain Bessé, head of a brokerage firm, took over the estate at Domaine de la Bretesche in the 1990s, and turned it into the hotel. His daughter, Anne Jousse, joined the company, expanded it with properties in Paris, and in 2009 founded the B Signature Hotels & Resorts group.
Six of its seven properties are located in France, including Hotel de Sers where we stayed in Paris, plus one in Saint-Barth. I had the pleasure of staying at the Manapany Resort, a stunning luxury ecolodge on the quiet side of the island where I found the same level of luxury, service and hospitality.
– Jan Schroder, Editor-in-chief