I arrived in Cyprus expecting pretty beaches, but I wasn’t prepared for how deeply the island would pull me into its story. From standing on centuries-old Roman mosaics to swimming in water so clear I could see every grain of sand below me, each day felt layered with history and light.
I wandered through medieval walls in Nicosia, hiked gorges and waterfall trails, tasted endless plates of fish meze, and watched the sun sink into the Mediterranean in a blaze of orange. By the time I left, Cyprus felt less like a destination and more like a vivid, living museum.
A Quick Introduction to Cyprus
This beautiful island in the Mediterranean, roughly the size of Connecticut, is known for its beaches, fascinating culture and being the birthplace of Aphrodite. A member of the European Union, Cyprus has been occupied by several countries but has been an independent republic since 1960. However, about 1/3 of the northeast part of the island is occupied by the Turkish after the invasion in 1974.
The official languages are Greek and Turkish, but English is widely spoken. About 1.4 million people live here, primarily in the cities of Nicosia, Limassol, Larnaca and Pafos. The island welcomes about 4 million visitors a year, but few from the U.S. After spending a glorious week there, I’m sharing 7 reasons why you should visit.
Historic sites of Cyprus: Ancient ruins, Roman mosaics, amphitheaters
In the U.S. we say, “Oh, that’s a really old building, almost 100 years.” I thought of that as I looked down at the mosaics with scenes from mythology that date back to the 4th century AD.
Cyprus is located at the crossroads of Europe, Asia and Africa, and its history spans close to 10,000 years. If you’re interested in extensive ancient ruins and archeological sites, a visit to Cyprus is a must. You’ll find everything from Greek temples to Moslem mosques, Gothic cathedrals and British colonial buildings.
Here are a few we visited.
Archaeological Park of Kato Pafos
Just outside of Pafos was one of the most fascinated sites we visited, a UNESCO World Heritage Sites since 1980. A highlight was the Pafos Mosaics.
Imagine you are a farmer plowing your field in 1962 and you accidentally unearth the remains of four Roman villas dating back to the 5th century AD. What was shocking to me is how well preserved the mosaic floors were, depicting the scenes of ancient mythology. The site also includes the Tombs of the Kings. These underground tombs are carved out of solid rock and were the burying ground for aristocrats.
Pafos Castle
Originally built to protect the harbor in Pafos, this castle has been rebuilt a few times, most recently by the Ottomans in 1592.
Panagia Chrysopolitissa Basilica
Also in Pafos, this site has the remains of a 13th-century church and St. Paul’s Pillar where traditions says Paul the Apostle was lashed 39 times in 45 AD when he arrived on the island to preach Christianity.
Birthplace of Aphrodite
I had to refresh my memory from my 8th-grade history class when we studied Greek gods to appreciate the sites we visited where Aphrodite was said to have been. On a drive along the coast from Pafos to Limassol, we stopped to see Petra tou Romiou, the huge rock where the Goddess of Love and Beauty is said to have stepped foot on earth for the first time, born of sea foam.
Theatre of Kourion
I stood on the stage of the ancient theater built in the 2nd century AD and wondered what it would have been like to perform in front of 3,500 spectators. This ancient theater has been restored and is still used for performances today.
Choirokoitia Archaeological Site
The oldest site I visited was from the Neolithic Age and had some remains and reconstructed homes that show how people lived in prehistoric times. The five cylindrically shaped homes house some original household objects. Considered one of the best-preserved prehistoric sites in the Mediterranean, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Medieval Walls of Nicosia
The capital of Cyprus and its largest city, Nicosia is in the northern part of the country and is the last divided capital in the world, a result of the Turkish invasion in 1974. Built by the Venetians in the 16th century, walls made of mud brick and stone encircle the city. The moat is still there, but now has sports fields, gardens, parking lot and a sculpture exhibition.
Agios Lazaros Church
This Byzantine church in a square in Larnaca was constructed in the 9th century and is said to be built over the tomb of Jesus’ friend Lazarus. It is believed that he came here after Jesus resurrected him and then died here. The second time.
To view ancient artifacts that have been excavated on the island, visit Cyprus Museum in Nicosia, the country’s largest archeological museum.
Travel tip: I advise getting a guide on your first trip to Cyrus. Our group had a fabulous guide, Dena Markidou. Her in-depth knowledge of Cyprus and ability to handle logistics added so much to my trip.
Visit here for more on the sites and museums of Cyprus.
Luxury accommodations in Cyprus: Stellar service, gorgeous properties
I stayed in several hotels during my week-long stay, more than I’d typically recommend but worked out beautifully for me to experience as much of the country as I could in just one week. But it was definitely hard to leave some of these gorgeous properties. Here are four I recommend.
Amara Hotel, Limassol
I was stunned by the sophisticated beauty of this hotel, located on the coast in Limassol. Opened in 2019, it was designed by the Rockwell Group, which also designs the Nobu hotels and restaurants. The art-filled property has 207 rooms, all with 180-degree views of the sea. For an ultra-luxury stay, book one of the 15 rooms that have a private pool. My deluxe sea view room was decorated soothing colors and had a chaise lounge and large bathroom with a marble tub.
There are four restaurants, two Michelin-star featured, Nobu Matsuhisa and Giorgio Locatelli. The 32,000-square-foot spa is magnificent, with 10 treatment rooms, five with a garden view and five with a sea view, and a large indoor pool. As a bonus, the hotel has the ruins of an ancient wall and spring that were uncovered during construction and preserved.
High-end boutiques include Christian Dior and Valentino and you can pick up a bauble like a Cartier bracelet at the jewelry store. And there’s a Kids Club with activities for children 4-12.
The service was impeccable. After I check out of a hotel, I generally prefer to wheel my suitcase out myself but did appreciate the five different people who offered to help me with my bags.
Limassol, the second largest city in Cyprus, is on the southern coast. It’s known for its Molos Promenade, castle, Old Town, festivals, luxury hotels, beaches and nightlife.
Almyra Hotel, Pafos
Another gorgeous property, Almyra overlooks the Mediterranean and is walkable to the best beach in Pafos. I loved the promenade by the sea and took a long walk both mornings I was there, spotting early risers swimming in the water and a Zumba class on the plaza. There were small wooden changing rooms for the swimmers, such a nice amenity for the public.
A member of Design Hotels and Marriott Bonvoy, Almyra Hotel had eight acres of landscaped gardens, five pools, spa and a gym. It has 188 rooms with 36 suites, all with a balcony or terrace and marble bathrooms. My room was sleek and sophisticated with a balcony overlooking the sea.
Dinner at Ouzeri at this hotel was one of the highlights of my trip, starting with the setting at a long table right by the promenade by the sea. We had my favorite, the fish and meat mezze, along with a delicious rosé.
The buffet breakfast, where I sat outside overlooking one of the pools, was fabulous as well. They had amazing tahini cookies, and I confess to sneaking a few out in a napkin to eat later on the van.
Located on the coast, Paphos is known for its ancient ruins, natural beauty, modern resorts and proximity to archeological sites.
AT Herbal Hotel, Protarus
This lovely hotel is not on the beach but close to the rugged southeastern coast of Cyprus, which is dotted with sandy beaches, including Fig Tree Bay. My room overlooked the pool and had a giant balcony.
A highlight is the Alaria Spa that has a beauty salon, sauna, haman, indoor pool and nutrition programs. The breakfast buffet at Sage Restaurant was a delight. The room had soaring ceilings and glass walls for lots of natural light.
Radisson Beach Resort, Larnaca
Located on the Mediterranean Sea, the Radisson has three restaurants and 202 rooms, all with either a balcony or a terrace. There isn’t a beach but there was a ladder to get into the ocean if you wanted to take a swim.
The oldest city in Cyprus, Lanarca is known more as an industrial city than a tourism destination and is the location for the international airport.
Water sports in Cyprus: Underground museum, diving and boating
I took a breath and slid down the plastic slide into the crystal blue waters of the Blue Lagoon, hoping I didn’t have a wardrobe malfunction because all would be visible in the waters where I could make out every ripple on the sandy bottom. I splashed into the sea, bathing suit intact, and spent a delightful hour swimming around in the gentle waves.
From the Almyra Hotel, our group had jumped into two Jeeps for a scenic hour-long ride to Latchi Harbor in the Akamas Peninsula on the West Coast of Cyprus. I found it best not to look down over the steep cliffs inches away from the road as we made our way north along the coast.
We hopped aboard the Latchi Queen for our Blue Lagoon cruise, which took us out of the harbor and along the rocky, hilly coast. The boat ride alone was a treat, but the highlight was the swim in the warm blue waters.
Another day I snorkeled in the waters of Ayia Napa, a major tourist resort area, after a short boat ride from the harbor where we could see the Musan Underwater Museum.
Breathing carefully through my snorkel and trying not to fog up my mask, I swam around admiring the 93 artworks by Jason deCaires Taylor in this underwater forest. The sculptures were about 26-30 feet underwater. Our captain also took us to see some sea caves and Love Bridge, a natural rock arch.
With warm waters, underwater caves, colorful sea life and shipwrecks, Cyprus is popular for divers around the world.
Beaches of Cyprus: Calm seas, turquoise water
Ayia Napa is also popular for its 14 Blue Flag beaches. The most popular one, and where the party people go, is Nissi Beach with cafes, cabanas and beach parties. On the other end of the spectrum is Ammos Tou Kambouri, a quieter more secluded beach. Fig Tree Bay in Protaras is a popular, family-friendly beach with shallow waters.
Other beach options include Dasoudi Beach, a Blue Flag beach in the tourist area near Limassol that has calm seas, water sports, playground, volleyball and an Olympic-size swimming pool. Xystarokampos Beach in the Akamas Peninsula has changing rooms and some popular restaurants.
Visit here for more information on beaches in Cyprus.
Hiking trails and sunsets: Waterfalls, gorges and cliff-top views
With its moderate climate, Cyprus is a wonderful place for hiking and has 52 designated hiking trails. After our Blue Lagoon boat ride, we hiked on the Aphrodite Trail that included views of Chrysochou Bay and Pafos Forest. A memorable stop was at the Baths of Aphrodite where legend says the Goddess of Love and Beauty used to bathe.
Another day we took a bumpy ride on a dirt road to a short hike on the Avakas Gorge Nature Trail, one of the most popular hikes in Paphos, which took us through a limestone gorge with steep walls.
After a visit to Platres Village one day, I headed on a one-hour hike to the Caledonia Waterfall, a nice hike through the woods.
If you visit Cyprus in November like I did, the sun sets early, around 4:45 p.m. so we could enjoy a sunset before Happy Hour. After our jeep excursion to the Akamas Peninsula, we headed to the coast of Peyia where in addition to a lovely sunset, we saw the huge shipwreck, the Edro III, which ran aground in 2011.
Another evening, we took a short hike to the rocky cliffs of Cape Greco for a perfect view of the sun disappearing in the sea in a blaze of orange.
Gastronomy in Cyprus: Fish meze and Zivania
I had to laugh when I looked back at my photos and saw about 27 photos of Greek salads. I couldn’t get over the fresh tomatoes, chunks of feta cheese and black olives that I enjoyed at just about every meal.
My amazement at the food in Cyprus started with my first lunch at Vassos Fish Tavern in Ayia Napa where I enjoyed the first of many authentic Cypriot meze. We were seated at a long table with a view of the water, so I was already in a happy place.
Then dishes and dishes of fresh Greek salads, cheese, dips, potatoes, vegetables, meats and fish came to our table, all piled high with food and served family style. I tried to pace myself, but with no knowledge of how many more dishes would continue to come our way, I did my best. I sipped on a crisp white wine while dining on these delicious dishes.
And to end it all was one of the best desserts I’ve ever had – an ice cream concoction with vanilla ice cream, strawberries and a hard chocolate shell drizzled with chocolate syrup.
This feast, served in multiple courses, is a Cypriot tradition and is served in several restaurants. Other notable meze meals included lunch at The Baths of Aphrodite restaurant in Polis, dinner at Mousikos Tavern in Sotira Village, our dinner at Ouzeri at Almyra Hotel, lunch at To Aithrion and lunch at Tochni Tavern overlooking Tochni Village.
Adding to my delight and enjoyment is that every single meal we had was outdoors in a lovely setting with the exception of one lunch when it was drizzling.
My days started with huge breakfast buffets at every hotel with wonderful selections. While indoor seating was available in all of them, I opted to sit outside to enjoy the weather and the views.
My first introduction to a traditional Cypriot drink was enjoying a delicious Brandy Sour cocktail on the beach at Fig Tree Bay. I tasted several local wines at LionSpirit Winery & Distillery. These included Commandaria, a sweet dessert wine that is the oldest named wine still in production.
Cyprus has been making wine for thousands of years and boasts more than 50 wineries with several wine routes.
One of my favorite restaurants was Muse in Paphos where we sat outside with a view overlooking the city and the Mediterranean. The restaurant was elegant and sophisticated with fantastic food. The chicken kebabs, pasta with scallops and chocolate lava cake were highlights.
I tasted several adult beverages one evening at Sunmoon Hospitality in Larnaca, including several types of the national drink of Zivania, with an alcohol level of 40-99% and made with distillation of a mixture of grape pomace and local dry wines. I preferred xyniateri, the delicious local white wine that we enjoyed with several meals, including at lunch.
Visit here for more on Cypriot cuisine.
Charming villages of Cyprus: Beekeeping and lacemaking
While there is plenty to do in the cities we visited – Lanarca, Nicosia, Limassol and Paphos –it’s worth a trip to explore some of the smaller villages.
I was charmed by the Lefkara Village in the Troodos Mountains, where the tradition of lacemaking and silverwork dates back to when the Venetians ruled the island from 1489–1570. The wives of Venetian generals made lace and sold it for income for the family. Many shops in LefKara still sell the lace, although much of it is machine-made. To see authentic handmade lace, visit the family-owned shop of Demosthenis Rouvis, Rouvis Lace and Silver, where his mother demonstrated lacemaking for us.
He lamented the dying art. “The young people don’t want to learn it,” he said. “They could upload a video on TikTok and make more money.”
After our visit to LefKara, we made a stop at Ecophysis Bee & Nature Center where I suited up in a beekeeping suit and joined the beekeeper as he inspected the hives. Those suits are hot and confining, giving me a new respect for beekeepers.
Also located in the Troodos Mountains, Agros Village is also known as Rose Village as it is famous for its rose cultivation. I learned about the production of rosewater at Tsolakis Rosewaters Workshop where the family-owned business produces rose products.
It was after a delightful lunch on a deck overlooking the mountains at Petit Palais Boutique Hotel Pano Platres in the village of Platres that we hiked to the Caledonia Waterfall.
About five years ago, the idea was born to designate eight of the villages as Christmas Villages where wooden kiosks are set up with local treats, soup, music and mulled wine, welcoming guests during the Christmas season.
See more on the villages of Cyprus.
How to Get to Cyprus
One drawback is that’s it not easy to get to Cyprus from the United States. It took me three flights to get home: Larnaca-London-JFK-ATL. My suggestion is to add it onto a trip to Europe. It’s a 90-minute flight from Athens, Greece, and around 5 hours from London.
Go to Visit Cyprus for more information.
– Jan Schroder, Editor-in-chief