Sometimes I just need a few days to “set a spell,” as we say in the South. I want a day with nothing I have to do. A getaway to Glen Choga Lodge in Western North Carolina was the perfect place to recharge and relax.
During our two-night stay in this beautiful six-suite mountain lodge, we enjoyed fantastic breakfasts and a leisurely pace. We spent the days hiking to Nantahala Lake and up the mountain. In the evenings we enjoyed the cozy warmth of the fire in the lobby. My one adrenaline surge came from playing a game of Moonshine-Opoly.
Later we learned about the fascinating history of Glen Choga, which includes a dammed river, FBI agents and the Green Berets, adding to its charm.
Glen Choga is in the Nantahala Mountains, named for the Cherokee word meaning “Land of the Noonday Sun.” Cherokee Indians had occupied this land for thousands of years until they were removed in 1838 and sent to Oklahoma on the Trail of Tears. More on its history later, which includes the explanation for its rather remote location.
As we followed our directions to the Lodge, we were losing confidence in our ability to find it. But as hope was waning, there it was, a large log lodge just like the photos, welcoming us to the charming front porch. We stepped in and met Liz and Tim Comstock, who is the manager and innkeeper, who showed us around the property.
Tim was a friendly, hospitable innkeeper who did all he could to make our stay comfortable. And he even saved Christmas for me.
Accommodations at Glen Choga Lodge
There are six one-bedroom suites in the two-level Glen Choga, each uniquely decorated, and a separate two-bedroom cabin. You can also rent out the entire lodge for a family or friend gathering.
We stayed in the Mallard Suite on the main floor, which is named after the wooden duck that was in the room when the owners bought the property.
The wood-paneled room had a king-size bed, dresser, TV (that we never turned on) and closet. The sitting room was on the other side of the bathroom and had a loveseat, chair and desk with a coffeemaker. In addition to the wood-paneled walls, the floors were hardwood and even the ceiling was made of wood to give it a cozy feel.
The downstairs also had a large lobby area with a fireplace, living room with adjacent dining area and kitchen. Upstairs had a game room, library and small, cozy room that looks like a perfect man cave.
Food at Glen Choga Lodge
Shortly after we arrived, it was time for the daily Happy Hour. Tim had set out two bottles of wine and several snacks that we enjoyed while sitting in front of the fireplace.
Because I knew the restaurants were about 30 minutes away in Andrews, North Carolina, and we wouldn’t want to set out again in the dark after just arriving, we brought our own food for dinner both nights. Guests at Glen Choga have use of the kitchen and there’s a fridge just for guests. There’s also a grill available.
If we visited in the summer months when it stayed lighter later and the warm fire didn’t have us under its spell, we would have tried a few of those restaurants. Tim recommended Hoppy Trout Brewing Company and The Tattered Tartan Pub.
But there’s no need to bring breakfast. Tim cooked a huge feast both days we were there. The menu varies each day but can include Belgian waffles, bacon, scrambled eggs, bagels, fresh fruit and granola.
Activities at Glen Choga Lodge
Although it was winter and cold outside, the sun was shining one day so we headed out for some hiking. There are hiking trails on the property and Tim gave us a map to make our way up the mountain.
Tromping through the leaves on a mountain trail is one of my favorite activities and I didn’t even mind when we veered far off the trail. We eventually made it back.
We also followed the gravel road down to Nantahala Lake where guests can enjoy boating, fishing and kayaking in the warmer months.
One afternoon I challenged Chris, who can be a reluctant game-player, into a game of Moonshine-Opoly I found in the game room. How could I resist moving my playing piece, a small metal outhouse, around a boardgame that included spaces like Go Hooch and Willie He Make it to the Outhouse? After all, we were in moonshine territory.
If you’re up for more activities during your stay, you can go whitewater rafting at the Nantahala Outdoor Center, fly fishing in the Nantahala River, take a ride on the Great Smoky Mountain Railway or hike in the Nantahala National Forest. If you’re traveling with the kids, head to Bear Creek Adventures for mini golf or mining for gems.
We spent our evenings reading by the fireplace or relaxing in our room. One night Tim put out some eggnog and asked Chris if he would like any. “It would be better if it had bourbon in it and I didn’t bring any,” Chris said.
Tim to the rescue! Although he doesn’t drink bourbon, he said he had been given some and offered to share. We asked him to join us by the fireplace and he and Chris enjoyed talking about Native-American history and artifacts, a topic they are both passionate about.
Tim recommended some books for Chris, a huge help for me because I had bought him zero Christmas presents at that point and now had some great ideas. I ordered several books that night.
History of Glen Choga Lodge
Alexander and Margaret Steuart, who built Glen Choga. (Photo: Glen Choga)
Tim shared a bit about the history of Glen Choga, which was built in 1935 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. The town of Aquone stood nearby and a toll road leading to it passed by the Glen Choga property. Scottish immigrants Alexander and Margaret Steuart built the Lodge on 146 acres as a summer vacation spot, milling wormy chestnut trees on the property to construct it.
The Atlanta Journal ran an ad for Glen Choga, calling it “A Journey’s End for discriminating people seeking a summer retreat far from the maddening crowd.” But the Nantahala Electric Company dammed the Nantahala River in 1942, creating the Nantahala Lake where the town was and cutting off the main road. Glen Choga shut down in 1949. It was purchased by a lumber company in 1956 for timber, then abandoned.
Glen Choga during construction. (Photo: Glen Choga)
The Green Berets arrived in 1967, using the area as a training ground for deployment for Vietnam with some of the men staying in the lodge. In 1979, an interior designer from Florida, Don Ezelle, bought the property and restored it to a residence and family retreat.
In 1998 officials with the FBI used it as a basecamp to search for Eric Rudolph, the Olympic Park Bomber, who was found in nearby Murphy, North Carolina. After Don died, Doug Matern, a businessman and founder of Matern Professional Engineering, and Terri, an interior designer, bought the lodge from the Ezelle estate and meticulously restored it to its present condition.
– Jan Schroder, Editor-in-chief