My idea of a perfect weekend getaway includes a great place to stay, delicious food, and fun things to explore — and West Virginia’s Eastern Panhandle delivered. At the Bavarian Inn in Shepherdstown, I relaxed by the Infinity 101 Pool overlooking the Potomac River, dined on schnitzel and sausage, and woke up to river views from my balcony.
I wandered historic streets, browsed charming shops, and even stood where four national parks meet in Harpers Ferry. From exploring the C&O Canal Towpath to savoring cornbread and pimento cheese at Alma Bea, this trip was the perfect mix of scenery, history, and adventure.
Where to Stay in West Virginia’s Panhandle
You’ll feel like you’re visiting Bavaria when you stay at the family-owned, historic Bavarian Inn in Shepherdstown. My room had a four-poster bed, balcony overlooking the river, couch, a huge bathroom with two sinks and a marble bathtub, mini-fridge and a gorgeous blue fireplace.
As soon as I dumped my bags, I headed to Infinity 101 Pool and Bar that overlooks the Potomac River to spend a relaxing afternoon. The 101 refers to how high the pool sits above the river.
I’m not much of a day drinker, but if vacation mode took over and a nap was a possibility, the bar was steps away with beverages and food including appetizers, salads and sandwiches.
More active guests can enjoy the complimentary bikes, tennis courts, pickleball courts and basketball courts, table tennis and bocce ball. No need to bring your own equipment as it’s available there.
There’s a fitness center on-site and you can also get a day pass for the Shepherd University Wellness Center across the street. Golfers can play a round at the Cress Creek Country Club just ½ mile away.
Popular with bikers, The Bavarian Inn is close to the 184.5-mile C&O Canal Towpath, which goes between Georgetown in D.C. and Cumberland, Maryland. In the old days before Amazon could deliver goods to your doorstep, people led mules that towed boats down the canal to transport goods.
If you don’t bring your own bike to hit the trail, you can rent one at Shepherdstown Pedal and Paddle. You can also rent a kayak to paddle on the Potomac.
My husband, Chris, and a bunch of his buddies are meeting in D.C. to bike the entire path in three days, starting from Cumberland, Maryland. “It’s slightly downhill so shouldn’t be a problem,” he said. Still, more than 60 miles a day is a long time to be in a saddle. He has wisely rented an e-bike.
Let’s talk food at the Bavarian Inn. Breakfast is complimentary for guests and served in the Lounge and Brew Pub. Items include yogurt, pastries, egg dishes, potatoes and fruit.
Lunch is also served in the Lounge and Brew Pub as well as the Potomac Room, which also serves a fine dining menu at night.
On weekends the Rathskeller is open, a cozy German-style pub that serves German entrees like wiener schnitzel and sauerbraten, plus European-inspired entrees like crab cakes, steak and salmon.
One night we dined outdoors at the Potomac Room, specializing in German and American fare. Shared appetizers included Bavarian Inn sausage sampler, fried Brussels sprouts and a German pretzel stuffed with crab.
The surprise dessert was a nut ball, an ice cream treat covered in nuts, coconut, chocolate sauce and strawberries.
Just an hour from Dulles Airport, the Bavarian Inn is a short walk from downtown Shepherdstown.
Things to do in West Virginia’s Eastern Panhandle
“You can walk through four national parks in five minutes from this location,” Kristen Maxfield said. We were standing on a bridge crossing the Potomac River at Harpers Ferry National Historical Park listening to Kirsten, the Interpretation & Education Program Manager. “There’s the Appalachian Trail, the C&O Canal, Harpers Ferry and the Potomac Heritage National Scenic Trail.”
Somehow that seemed an accomplishment far outside the amount of effort I’d put into crossing the bridge. It reminded me of the T-shirt for sale that reads “I have walked the entire width of the Appalachian Trail.” The word width is about 1/2″ tall.
Many visitors to Harpers Ferry are interested in exploring the site of John Brown’s raid in 1859, an attempt to free slaves and a catalyst for the Civil War, as well as its history in the 18th, 19th and 20th century. “Our stories are of people who had the intent to make this country better,” Kristen told us. It’s also popular for recreation, with two rivers and 22 miles of hiking trails.
For a true taste of West Virginia, try its state food at nearby Bolivar Bread where you can dig into a pepperoni roll. These date back to the heyday of coal mining when the workers wanted a lunch they could easily carry down into the mines. If you’re interested in making sourdough baked goods, ask for a piece of Jeffrey, their sourdough starter they freely share. Yes, he is so important to them that he got a name.
Located in the lower Shenandoah Valley on the Potomac River, Shepherdstown was founded in 1762 and is the oldest town in the state. The downtown streets are lined with cute shops like Dogwood General Store and Mountaineer Popcorn. I loved the cute Dog Library that had supplies for our canine companions. During the school year you’ll probably encounter some of the 4,000 students who attend Shepherd University.
Check to see if there’s a show or a movie playing at the Shepherdstown Opera House, a restored vaudeville theater opened in 1910. You’ll also find live entertainment and movies at the Apollo Civic Theater, another restored theater in Martinsburg that opened in 1914.
Martinsburg, known as the “Gateway to the Shenandoah Valley” and about 45 minutes from Shepherdstown, is a railway town with the Martinsburg Roundhouse you can tour, the only surviving cast iron frame roundhouse in the world.
We toured two historic homes. First was the Adams Stephen House built by a general in the American Revolution and the founder of the town. The second was the childhood home of Confederate spy Belle Boyd. I got a kick out of her journal entries on display that showed a level of confidence I can only aspire to.
The shops in Martinsburg are also worth a visit. I smelled the delectable smell of chocolate as soon as we walked into DeFluri’s Fine Chocolates. Had it not been for lack of suitcase space and fear of melting, (the chocolate, not me) I would have stocked up on some goodies. I did find a bargain, a soft, fuzzy black hoodie, at Jordan & Hess, which carries home décor, clothing and gift items.
For more gift items, bakery goods and produce, or to just frolic in a field, head to Orr’s Farm Market in Martinsburg. Check their schedule for events with food trucks and live music.
If you’re into geocaching you are in for a treat. Berkeley County, where Martinsburg is located, claims to be the #1 county in the world for geocaching and attracts visitors from around the world with 210 sites. I tagged along with my friend Karon to find one in Poor House Farm Park, a 207-acre park with volleyball courts, soccer fields, disc golf, pond and nature-based playground.
Using her app, Karon read out the directions to the cache, which took us behind a soccer field, through the woods and across a meadow where she started looking in a large patch of ground cover.
After searching for a few minutes, she cried, “I found it,” and pulled out a small container, a smaller version of the kind you’d get swooshed to you from the teller at the ATM.
I can see the appeal of geocaching, but if I’m going to walk that far and hunt that hard for something, I prefer to find food, jewelry or other nice accessory.
Where to eat and drink in the Eastern Panhandle of West Virginia
No destination is worth going to without good food, IMO. West Virginia did not disappoint. For lunch one day we dined outside under a tiki umbrella in a beautifully landscaped area at Blue Moon Cafe in Shepherdstown. The menu includes salads, sandwiches, quiche, burgers, quesadillas and pizzas.
Alma Bea in Shepherdstown is the place to go for a heaping plate of southern favorites like fried chicken, brisket, deviled eggs and Brunswick stew, all made from scratch.
The complimentary breadbasket seems to be disappearing from restaurant tables, but not here. We all dug into delicious cornbread served with pimento cheese.
I had one of the best Thai meals of my life at Thai Martinsburg, where everything tasted fresh. At dinner at Brix 27, also in Martinsburg, we shared appetizers that included truffle fries and a charcuterie board while I opted for salmon over couscous for dinner.
I wasn’t initially excited to go to a distillery, but Black Draft Distillery is unlike any other I’ve seen. It looks like Joanna Gaines decorated it, all shiplap and white paint, while Chip Gaines could have planned the huge courtyard out back with plenty of seating and cabanas. Food trucks provide sustenance.
Black Draft is the first grain-to-glass distillery to open in West Virginia since Prohibition and is a lovely place to relax and enjoy an adult beverage.
I don’t drink them often but do love a martini. I took a seat at the bar at The Young American Martini Bar, a 1920s-style martini bar, and settled on a Cosmopolitan. The lovely bartender expertly lined up four glasses for us, filled them with ice to chill them, and filled each one with a delectable looking drink. We raised our glasses to toast an amazing trip to West Virginia.
For more on West Virginia’s Eastern Panhandle, visit Jefferson County Convention & Visitors Bureau and Travel West Virginia.