A trip to St. Maarten is like three vacations in one. You get a bit of the French countryside, a colorful Dutch town, and of course, a gorgeous Caribbean island.
The activities are just as varied; you can skip waves in a Rhino, dance to calypso music in an authentic Carnival costume and enjoy a flaming French dessert. Another highlight was sipping an adult beverage and lounging on a raft in the Caribbean Sea at Balaou, a floating restaurant and bar.
The one-hour ferry ride was a roller coaster, but worth it to spend a day on beautiful St. Barts.
Fun Facts About St. Maarten
If you look at St. Maarten on a map, the first thing you’ll notice is that the French somehow retained a little less than 2/3rds of the island’s beachfront. How is that fair?
Well, according to local legend, over 350 years ago French and Dutch explorers settled their dispute over the island by having one representative from each country begin on opposite sides of the island and run towards the middle. The place where they met would become the new border.
As you can see, the French guy vastly outpaced the Dutchman, causing the Dutch to cry foul. But the French had a pretty valid retort. “Hey, it’s not our fault our guy was drinking French wine – and your guy was drinking Dutch gin.”
People travel freely between the two countries, which have a different language and currency, and it’s the oldest open border in the world.
Imbalanced as it may be, the resulting island offers an enticing mix of Caribbean, Dutch and French influence. You can see it in the architecture, food, cocktails, even the languages you hear. The population is about 43,000, with descendants of 120 nationalities.
If you’re planning a trip to this eclectic island paradise, what should you add to the itinerary?
Rhino tours in Happy Bay
“Tomorrow we’re riding Rhinos.”
I’m sorry, what? I had so many questions. There are Rhinos in St. Maarten? And we’re riding them?
“Absolutely!” our local guide said. “They’re fast, too. When we get to the French side, we’ll just park them on the water and swim to shore.”
As it turns out, a “Rhino” is both a two-ton African and Southeast Asian unicorn – and a special type of boat that’s like a hybrid between a jet ski and a dinghy. You can rent these things via RhinoTours.com, and during your 45-minute ride from Happy Bay to Friar’s Bay, you’ll pass yachts, cross under bridges, and even brave the open Caribbean Sea.
The Rhino ride easily tops my list of essential St. Maarten activities due to the sheer whirlwind of emotions you’ll feel. You’ll go from crashing through waves like James Bond pursuing a villain – to lying on the warm sand with a mojito – within literal minutes of each other. I honestly can’t recall anything I’ve done that’s quite as thrilling as the St. Maarten Rhino Tour (on the land or the sea).
Caribbean Carnival History Experience
Caribbean Carnival is far more than just “4th of July for the Caribbean.” This enormously important holiday lasts for weeks and uses food, music, costumes, color and more to honor the islands’ culture and emancipation from slavery.
If you’re unable to attend Carnival in mid-April, the next best thing is the Caribbean Carnival History Experience near the airport. There, you’ll get to learn all about the meaning of this complex holiday – and the staggering amount of work that owner Gerald Hart pours into these ornate, 10,000-piece costumes.
“Experience” is an apt term, too, since this is far more than just a museum. Sure, there’s over 8,000 square feet of costumes, culture and history to explore – but there’s also a open bar and a chance to don a custom yourself for a complimentary photoshoot.
Dine on the sand at Orient Bay Village
Located on the Northeastern edge of the island, Orient Bay Village has gotta be one of the most ideal date-night locations in the entire Caribbean. Essentially a little French village nested on the beach, OBV offers wine, romantic lighting, high-end restaurants, a tiny marketplace and more.
We dined at Le Piment, which I assumed would be spicy given the glowing red pepper in their logo. But it seems to just be a stylistic choice, since the menu offers a generous variety of surf-and-turf and French classics. For dessert, be sure to try the Chef’s Special: a crêpe that’s soaked in alcohol and lit on fire.
Float, drink and dine on the water at Balaou restaurant
Balaou restaurant, St. Maarten’s famous “floating bar” is exactly what it sounds like. About 300 yards off the island’s western shore, you’ll find a fully functioning bar and restaurant gently bobbing in the waves.
After taking the boat ferry from shore, you and your friends can order cocktails, shockingly good pizza, and grab a group float with the perfect amount of sunshine.
It’s also perfectly safe to dive in for a swim. Just be sure to book in advance, since spots (aka floats) are limited!
Tackle a plate of ribs at Captain’s Rib Shack
At some point on your trip, you’re going to want to sample the most authentic Caribbean street food you can find. And as far as I know, the best place to accomplish that culinary goal is Captain’s Rib Shack.
Located just southeast of the airport, Captain’s offers jerk chicken, creole shrimp “Orgasmic Ribs” and more. My favorite was the Stuffed Crab Back, pictured in the top right above; as the name implies, it’s a literal crab shell packed with seasoned crab meat and bursting with Caribbean flavor.
Yes, it’s a heavy meal. So why not walk it off in downtown P-Burg?
Stroll through downtown Philipsburg
Safe and supremely walkable, downtown Philipsburg (on the Dutch side) features local shops, food vendors, and a ridiculously wide boardwalk where cars aren’t allowed.
You can also see hints of Dutch influence everywhere; there are windmills, Dutch coffeehouses, wooden clogs and more, adding to P-Burg’s multicultural charm. And don’t miss the local street market, located just north of the town square!
Take a ferry to St. Barts … if you’re feeling brave
Located just nine miles from St. Maarten, the island of St. Bart is known for being a picturesque playground for the hyper-rich. Imagine a slice of Versailles parked in the Caribbean and you’ll get the general picture; yachts and high-end stores that sell watches worth more than my house. Even if you don’t go shopping, it’s just a stunning place to walk around and explore.
See our related story: Hotel Manapany: Stunning luxury ecolodge on St. Barts
Trouble is, it’s shockingly hard to get to. You basically have three options for accessing St. Barts:
- Buy a yacht
- Charter a private plane or take a regional flight
- Take the public ferry
At ~$100 round trip, the public ferry is the only proletariat-friendly option. Just be warned that on some days, it’s quite a rocky ride. You’re basically taking a small boat over the open ocean, so it can be a one-hour roller coaster.
But the ride is worth it, since you have this waiting for you:
As for dining options, La Guérite is a lovely choice (if you can get a table). Like most everything else on the island, its pricing isn’t for the faint of heart – you can easily spend 100 euros or more per person with a cocktail, app and entree.
But it’s worth it for the high-quality French cuisine, beachside views and quiet atmosphere. Plus, La Guérite is rumored to host A-List celebrities year-round – so there’s a real world chance you’ll see a favorite actor.
Oh, and you’ll be dining on the beach – so you can kick off your flip-flops and bury your toes in the warm Caribbean sand as you enjoy another bite of your perfectly seasoned steak.
For more on St. Maartens, go to Visit St. Maarten.
– Chris Butsch, contributor